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Home Inspection Surrey | FAQ

  1. What exactly do you check during the inspection?
    Answer: I do a careful visual, non-invasive check of the home’s main systems: structure, roof/exterior, plumbing, electrical, heating/cooling, insulation/ventilation, and interior. I look for safety hazards, active defects, moisture issues, and items nearing the end of life. Alliance Home Inspections explains what we see, why it matters, and what to do next.

  2. How long will it take, and should I attend?
    Answer: Most homes take 2–4 hours depending on size, age, and condition. Please attend—seeing issues in person makes the report much easier to understand and lets you ask questions in real time.

  3. What are the top risks you see in this property?
    Answer: In coastal BC the big three are usually water entry, roof/exterior wear, and electrical safety. I’ll point out the highest-impact items first, explain potential costs, and give you a simple plan to address them.

  4. What should I budget for in the first year?
    Answer: Expect small items like filters, caulking, servicing, and a few minor repairs. I’ll also flag bigger items (roof, windows, HVAC, water heater) with typical lifespan ranges so you can plan and avoid surprises.

  5. How does BC’s rain and climate affect this home?
    Answer: Water is the #1 enemy here. Keep gutters clear, extend downspouts, maintain caulking/flashings, and watch grading; Alliance Home Inspections will show you simple moisture-control habits that protect your home and wallet.

Structure

  1. Is the foundation in good shape?
    Answer: Hairline cracks are common; wide, stepped, or leaking cracks need attention. If I see signs of movement or moisture entry, I’ll recommend a structural engineer and improved drainage.

  2. Do you see settlement or slope issues?
    Answer: I look for sloped floors, sticking doors, and crack patterns. On hillsides, drainage and retaining walls are critical; poor control can lead to movement and costly repairs.

  3. How earthquake-ready is this house?
    Answer: BC is seismically active, so I check for water-heater strapping, foundation anchoring/bolting, weak crawl-space walls, and tall masonry chimneys. An engineer can design seismic upgrades for better life-safety and insurance comfort.

  4. Are decks and balconies safe?
    Answer: I examine railings, flashing, rot, slope, and waterproofing—huge in our wet climate. If I suspect hidden rot, I’ll recommend a contractor for invasive assessment before you rely on the deck.

  5. How are perimeter drainage and grading?
    Answer: Soil should slope away from the house and downspouts should discharge away. Older weeping tile can clog; a camera scope helps assess condition and avoid basement leaks.

Roof / Exterior

  1. What is the roof type, age, and remaining life?
    Answer: Asphalt shingles often last ~15–25 years on the coast; metal/tile can last longer with maintenance. I judge remaining life by granule loss, curling, flashing condition, and past repairs.

  2. Any signs of current or past leaks?
    Answer: I check for stains, soft decking, moss at key areas, failed flashings, and attic signs of moisture. If leaks are likely, plan targeted repairs and monitor after a heavy rain.

  3. Are gutters and downspouts adequate for BC rain?
    Answer: They should be clean, properly sloped, and not overflowing. Consider larger downspouts/leaf guards if trees are nearby and splash blocks or extensions to move water away from the foundation.

  4. Is the siding properly rain-screened?
    Answer: A drained and ventilated cavity behind siding helps walls dry—very important here. Older stucco/EIFS or non-rain-screened condos need extra moisture diligence and regular maintenance.

  5. How are window and door flashings and seals?
    Answer: I check head flashings, sill slopes, and caulking. Soft trim, staining, or failed seals suggest water entry—repair early to prevent bigger envelope damage.

Plumbing

  1. What plumbing materials are installed?
    Answer: I identify copper, PEX, galvanized steel, and Poly-B (grey, often stamped PB2110). Poly-B from the late ’80s–’90s can be leak-prone and some insurers require replacement—I’ll advise based on what I see.

  2. Is the water pressure under control?
    Answer: High pressure stresses pipes and appliances. A pressure-reducing valve (PRV) should be present and may need testing or replacement if older or failing.

  3. What’s the condition of the water heater?
    Answer: Tanks last ~8–12 years; tankless about 15–20 with maintenance. I check for leaks, safe venting, pan/drain, and a proper TPR discharge; I’ll advise on timing for replacement.

  4. Any concerns with drains and venting?
    Answer: I test for slow drains, gurgling, and visible leaks. Older cast iron/clay mains can clog or collapse—sewer camera scoping is smart due diligence before you buy.

  5. Could there be an underground oil tank (UST)?
    Answer: Older properties may have buried oil tanks; clues include old fill/vent pipes. Undeclared tanks can mean costly soil cleanup and insurance problems—get a professional scan.

Electrical

  1. What is the service size and is the panel safe?
    Answer: I confirm amperage, labeling, bonding/grounding, and look for corrosion or overheating. Obsolete or damaged panels should be evaluated by a licensed electrician.

  2. Is there aluminum branch wiring?
    Answer: Common in some 1960s–1970s homes. It needs special connectors and maintenance; I’ll recommend an electrician to assess and mitigate for fire safety and insurance acceptance.

  3. Are GFCI and AFCI protections installed where sensible?
    Answer: GFCIs reduce shock risk in kitchens, baths, exterior, garage; AFCIs reduce fire risk in living/bedroom circuits. Adding them is a high-value safety upgrade in older homes.

  4. Do you see unsafe wiring practices?
    Answer: I look for double-tapped breakers, open splices, over-fusing, damaged conductors, and amateur work. Repairs should be done by a licensed electrician, not DIY.

  5. Is grounding and bonding correct?
    Answer: Proper grounding electrodes and bonding of metal water/gas lines are essential for safety and proper breaker operation. I’ll note any deficiencies and fixes.

HVAC (Heating/Cooling)

  1. What systems are installed and their typical lifespans?
    Answer: Gas furnace ~15–20 yrs, boiler ~20–30, heat pump ~10–15 (longer with good care). I check filters, venting, age tags, noise, and service records to judge condition.

  2. Will a heat pump work well in coastal BC?
    Answer: Yes—modern cold-climate heat pumps perform well; backup heat may engage on the coldest days. Annual servicing keeps efficiency high and energy bills lower.

  3. How are ducts and airflow?
    Answer: I look for leaks, crushed runs, missing insulation, and poor balance (hot/cold rooms). Sealing and insulating ducts improves comfort and energy use quickly.

  4. Are gas appliances venting safely?
    Answer: I check clearances, exhaust paths, CO risks, and combustion air. Have a licensed gasfitter service gas appliances yearly for safety and reliability.

  5. Are bathroom and kitchen fans vented outside?
    Answer: They must not terminate in the attic or crawlspace. Direct exterior venting controls moisture, prevents mold, and protects the roof sheathing.

Insulation / Ventilation / Energy

  1. Is attic insulation and ventilation adequate?
    Answer: I look for even insulation, clear soffits, baffles, and no blocked vents. Mold-like staining often links to poor ventilation or fans venting into the attic—we’ll show fixes.

  2. Where are the best air-sealing wins?
    Answer: Seal attic hatches, around pipes/wires, and weather-strip doors. Air sealing often gives more comfort per dollar than insulation alone.

  3. Are the windows efficient or due for upgrade?
    Answer: Older or failed-seal windows lose heat and fog up. Quality double/triple pane improves comfort and reduces noise and condensation risk.

  4. Should I consider HRV/ERV or better condo ventilation?
    Answer: Balanced systems bring in fresh air and manage humidity and odors, great for tight homes and stratified condos. They also help reduce condensation on windows.

  5. Any rebates or incentives worth checking?
    Answer: Often yes for heat pumps, windows, and air sealing through provincial/utility programs. Alliance Home Inspections will point you to current portals so you can confirm eligibility before spending.

Safety / Environmental

  1. Could there be asbestos in this home?
    Answer: In pre-1990 homes, materials like vinyl tile, drywall mud, pipe wrap, and vermiculite may contain asbestos. Only lab testing confirms—test before renovating or disturbing suspect materials.

  2. Should I test for radon in BC?
    Answer: Levels vary by region and building tightness. A long-term (about 90-day) test is best; if high, mitigation is straightforward (usually a fan and vent system).

  3. What about lead paint or old supply lines?
    Answer: Pre-1980 paint can contain lead—use safe methods when sanding or renovating. Some areas had lead service lines; water testing and contacting the municipality help you plan replacements.

  4. Are smoke/CO alarms and bedroom exits adequate?
    Answer: Install smoke alarms on every level and in bedrooms, plus CO alarms near sleeping areas. Bedrooms need usable egress (window or door) for safe escape.

New-Build / Warranty

  1. What should I focus on at the pre-delivery inspection (PDI)?
    Answer: Test every door/window, outlet, faucet, drain, fan, and appliance; note cosmetic defects, exterior grading, and caulking/flashings. Document with photos and submit a written list—this protects your warranty.

  2. How does the BC 2-5-10 warranty work?
    Answer: Most new homes carry 2 years (labour/mechanical), 5 years (building envelope), and 10 years (structure). Report issues in writing, on time to the builder/warranty provider to keep coverage strong.

  3. What new-home defects do you see most?
    Answer: Missing caulking/flashings, attic insulation gaps, bath fans not vented outside, grading errors, and poor HVAC balancing. Fixing these early prevents moisture damage and comfort issues.

  4. Buying a new condo/townhome—what should I review?
    Answer: Read the disclosure, bylaws, minutes, depreciation report, and common-area deficiency lists. Understand the rain-screen details, warranty terms, and the strata’s maintenance plan and budget.

Older Homes / Permits

  1. How do I confirm additions or suites were permitted?
    Answer: Check with the municipality for building, electrical, and plumbing permits and final inspections. Unpermitted work can affect safety, insurance, financing, and resale—verify before you commit.

  2. What older systems may need updating?
    Answer: Aluminum wiring, knob-and-tube, Poly-B piping, galvanized water lines, old furnaces/boilers, and cast-iron/clay sewers. I’ll rank them by risk, urgency, and cost so you can plan smartly.

  3. How do you estimate remaining life on big-ticket items?
    Answer: I combine age, visible wear, installation quality, and service history. If something looks near end-of-life, I’ll suggest getting contractor quotes for budgeting or negotiation.

  4. Are secondary suites safe and legal?
    Answer: I look for proper exits/egress, smoke/CO separation, ceiling height, electrical/plumbing safety, and heating. Always confirm zoning and permits with the city to avoid fines and insurance issues.

Reporting / Next Steps

  1. How will your report help me make decisions?
    Answer: Alliance Home Inspections organizes findings by Safety/Urgent, Major Defects, and Maintenance with photos and plain-English action steps. You’ll know what matters most now and what to budget for later.

  2. Who should I call after the inspection?
    Answer: Depending on findings: a licensed electrician, plumber, roofer, HVAC tech, structural engineer, sewer/drain-tile camera service, or oil-tank scanner. I’ll list the right specialist for each item so you don’t waste time.

  3. How should I use the report after I buy?
    Answer: Use it to negotiate repairs/credits, schedule priority fixes, and plan first-year maintenance. Keep it as your home care checklist, and consider a re-inspection after major repairs to confirm quality.

Disclaimer (What a home inspection is and isn’t):
A home inspection is a visual, non-invasive snapshot of the home on the day we visit—I don’t open walls or move major items, and it’s not a code or warranty inspection. Hidden problems can exist. When Alliance Home Inspections flags an issue, please consult the appropriate licensed specialist for further evaluation, quotes, and repairs.

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